Driving south through Veracruz, the landscape shifts dramatically. The flat coastal plains suddenly rise into the Sierra de los Tuxtlas, a place where the Trans-Mexican Volcanic Belt crashes violently into the Gulf of Mexico. The result of this collision is Roca Partida: sheer, black volcanic cliffs topped with dense jungle, dropping 100 feet straight into the deepest blue water on the coast.

This is not a typical resort beach. It is an adventure destination for hikers, birdwatchers, and travelers willing to go off the grid.

However, if you are navigating here using Google Maps or Waze, you are likely about to make a mistake. Do not type “Roca Partida” into your GPS. Doing so often routes you to a dead-end cliff edge on private property with no safe way down to the water. Instead, you must set your destination to “Arroyo de Lisa.” This is the small fishing village at the base of the cliffs where the boats depart.

While the city of Catemaco serves as the region’s spiritual hub for brujos and healers, the coast offers a wilder energy. You can see how this dramatic coastline fits into the wider region in our Ultimate Guide to Los Tuxtlas, Veracruz.

What is Roca Partida? (A Geological Wonder)

Roca Partida is a geological anomaly. While much of the Gulf Coast features sloping sand dunes, these cliffs are formed from basaltic lava that cooled rapidly upon hitting the ocean. This process created vertical hexagonal pillars—strikingly similar to the famous Giant’s Causeway in Ireland, but covered in tropical vegetation.

The site sits within the Los Tuxtlas Biosphere Reserve, recognized by UNESCO as the northernmost tropical rainforest in the Americas. This unique location creates a visual contrast you won’t find elsewhere in Mexico: emerald green jungle sitting immediately atop obsidian-black stone.

Because there are no rivers draining directly into this specific bay, the sediment that clouds the water near Veracruz City is absent here. The water at the base of the cliffs is remarkably transparent, shifting from turquoise to deep midnight blue.

How to Get to Roca Partida from Veracruz

Most English-language guides will tell you to take a taxi from Catemaco, which is expensive and inefficient. The smarter route, used by locals, goes through the town of Ángel R. Cabada.

Option A: Driving (The Route)

If you are renting a car, take Highway 180 South from Veracruz City. You are heading toward the town of Ángel R. Cabada.

• The Landmark: Watch for the Ingenio San Pedro, a massive sugar cane mill, just before the town.
• The Turn: Turn off at the intersection locally known as “El Tropico.” From here, the road winds through sugar cane fields toward the coast.
• Road Warning: While paved, the road from El Tropico to Arroyo de Lisa is often riddled with significant potholes. Drive carefully.

Option B: Public Transport (The Exploit)

This is the specific logistical gap that most travelers miss. You do not need a private car to get here, but you do need to know which truck to look for.

1. The Bus: Book a ticket via the official ADO website or buy one at the station. Take an AU (Autobuses Unidos) or TLT bus heading toward San Andrés Tuxtla. Critical: Ask the driver to let you off at Ángel R. Cabada. Do not go all the way to Catemaco.
2. The Transfer: Once in Cabada, walk to the taxi stand near the Highway 180/El Tropico intersection.
3. The “Pirata”: Look for a camioneta (a pickup truck with bench seats and a roof structure in the back). You want the one marked for Arroyo de Lisa (sometimes marked “Toro Prieto”). These run as colectivos and cost a fraction of a taxi fare.
4. The Return: Be aware that the last truck leaving the beach back to town usually departs around 5:00 PM. If you miss it, you will be stuck paying a premium for a private taxi.

The Roca Partida Boat Tour: Caves and Cliffs

You cannot fully appreciate the scale of the cliffs from the land. You need to get on the water. There is no official ticket booth; you simply walk onto the sand at Arroyo de Lisa and negotiate with the lancheros (boatmen) waiting by their pangas.

Pricing Transparency:

• Shared (Colectivo): Expect to pay between 150–200 MXN per person if you are willing to wait for the boat to fill up.
• Private: To rent the entire boat for your group (up to 8-10 people), the price is usually 800–1,200 MXN.

Tour Highlights:

• Cueva del Pirata Lorencillo: The boat will pilot you directly into a sea cave. Legend states that Laurens de Graaf (Lorencillo), a 17th-century Dutch pirate who sacked Veracruz, used this cave to hide his treasure.
• Birdwatching: The cliffs are white-capped with guano, marking the nesting sites of Frigatebirds and Brown Boobies (Sula leucogaster). The eBird Hotspot data for Los Tuxtlas lists this area as a prime location for spotting pelagic species from shore.

Negotiation Tip: Before you pay, ask the boatman to drop you off at Playa Escondida after the tour and return for you two hours later. Negotiate the pickup price upfront.

Hiking the Cliffs and Playa Escondida

If you prefer to stay on dry land, there is a trail that leads to the top of the cliffs, offering vertigo-inducing views of the Gulf.

The Lighthouse Hike: The trail begins at the northern end of Arroyo de Lisa. It is a steep, 15-minute climb to the lighthouse. Note that the trail is unfenced and often muddy. The view looks straight down the vertical basalt wall, so approach the edge with extreme caution.

Playa Escondida: As the name suggests, this “Hidden Beach” is difficult to reach. While there is a treacherous scramble down the rocks, it is essentially a climbing route. We strongly recommend accessing this beach by boat. It is an isolated paradise with calmer waters than the open ocean.

Safety Warning: Do not swim directly against the basalt cliff walls. The ocean currents hit the rock faces and create strong reflux (push-back) that can drag swimmers underwater or slam them against the stone. Swim only in the designated bays at Arroyo de Lisa or Playa Escondida.

For adrenaline seekers, this is a premier location for rappelling. Operators usually charge between 600–800 MXN to let you rappel down the cliff face toward the ocean.

Where to Stay and Eat in Arroyo de Lisa

This village operates on a “Cash Only” basis. There are NO ATMs in Arroyo de Lisa. The nearest cash machine is 30 minutes away in Ángel R. Cabada. Bring enough pesos for your boat, food, and room.

Accommodation: Don’t expect luxury resorts. The lodging here is rustic, often without air conditioning.

• Paraíso Escondido: A popular spot for camping and simple rooms.
• Roca Partida Cabañas: Basic cabins right near the water.
• Note: Many of these places do not have websites; you find them by walking in or contacting them via WhatsApp.

If your travel style requires air conditioning and reliable Wi-Fi, it is better to visit as a day trip. You can find more comfortable lodging options in our guide to the Best Hotels in Catemaco.

Food: Dining takes place under palapas on the sand. The seafood is caught daily by the village fishermen. Order the Minilla, a classic Veracruz dish of shredded fish seasoned with tomatoes, olives, and capers.

Local Tip: As sunset approaches, cover up or apply repellent. The “jejenes” (sand flies) emerge at dusk and are notoriously aggressive near the jungle line.

Planning Your Itinerary: What Else is Nearby?

To get the most out of the day, arrive at Arroyo de Lisa by 10:00 AM. The afternoon winds, known as “Nortes,” can make the sea choppy, often forcing the boat captains to cancel trips into the caves.

Because Roca Partida is geographically isolated, it pairs well with other stops on the “Jungle Route”:

1. Sontecomapan: Located 45 minutes south, the Sontecomapan Mangroves are famous for their green tunnels. It is also the exact filming location for the river arrival scene in the movie Apocalypto.
2. Salto de Eyipantla: On your return trip toward San Andrés Tuxtla, stop at this massive waterfall, often compared to scenes from Lord of the Rings. You can find full logistical details in our Salto de Eyipantla Waterfall Guide.

Conclusion

Roca Partida offers the most dramatic coastal scenery in Veracruz, stripping away the resorts to leave you with raw volcanic power and deep blue water.

Your Checklist:

• Download offline maps (signal is spotty).
• Bring plenty of cash (small bills).
• Arrive in the morning to beat the wind.

For more hidden gems inside the biosphere, including jungle treks at Nanciyaga and monkey spotting, read our full Ultimate Guide to Los Tuxtlas, Veracruz.